Rome is a city where art and history flow seamlessly together. The grandeur of its Baroque masterpieces is undeniable—ornate, marble-adorned Jesuit churches near Piazza Venezia, Bernini’s monumental fountain in Piazza Navona, and Borromini’s intricate designs all serve as bold testaments to an era that celebrated drama and opulence. Equally compelling is the city’s Renaissance heritage, where the refined elegance of Raphael’s wall paintings in the Vatican Museums and the sublime beauty of Michelangelo’s frescoed ceiling and altar in the Sistine Chapel evoke a time of artistic innovation and humanism.
Beneath these celebrated layers, Rome holds a quieter medieval legacy. In neighborhoods such as Monti and the Old Ghetto, subtle traces of medieval art and architecture emerge amid the modern hustle. Recent archaeological discoveries—unearthing walls and foundations of a long-forgotten housing complex during a subway expansion near Piazza Venezia—offer a rare glimpse into everyday life from centuries past.
For those seeking to immerse themselves fully in medieval charm, a day trip to Viterbo is a rewarding escape. This walled town, home to about 65,000 residents who take immense pride in their heritage, is also known as a “city of popes.” Viterbo’s imposing papal palace once housed five pontiffs, while its medieval quarter—particularly in the San Pellegrino neighborhood—delights with winding cobblestone streets, homes crafted from deep gray peperino stone, and stone lions that echo the town’s ancient symbol.
One unforgettable chapter in Viterbo’s history unfolded during a conclave from 1268 to 1271. In a bid to hasten the cardinals’ decision, locals reduced the electors’ comforts—serving only bread and water and even removing the palace roof so that the cardinals had to take shelter under a tent. Such dramatic measures not only sped up the election process but also underscored the town’s enduring spirit. Even today, traditions like St. Rosa’s feast day on September 3—when locals don white outfits accented with red waistbands and hoist a towering “macchina” in a procession dating back to the 13th century—remind visitors of Viterbo’s vibrant, living history.
In both Rome and Viterbo, history is not confined to textbooks or museums—it is woven into the very fabric of daily life, inviting you to explore a landscape where every street and stone tells a story.
First Roman emperors, then pontiffs. Throughout the ages, when the powerful and the privileged wanted to escape the summer heat of Rome, they headed for their villas in the hills — the Alban Hills, that is, southeast of Rome. Contemporary citizens of Rome still follow that tradition, flocking to the hill towns known collectively as the Castelli Romani (Roman Castle towns), or more simply, I Castelli, for cooling breezes, fine wines and panoramic views.
Visitors in Rome in the summer months would be wise to take the Romans’ lead and consider taking a day trip — or making an evening of it — by dining in the historic centers of quaint towns or strolling near scenic lakes.
While relaxing vibes and centuries of history permeate the Castelli Romani, each town boasts its own charm, gastronomic specialties and eagerly awaited annual festivals known as sagre.
